Mera Peak Climbing

Mera peak is placed in the east of Khumbu trekking trail of Everest region. It is somewhat challenging and for the first timers it can be the exhilarating experience. Though the climbing here does not require technical knowledge but you should have good immunity to adapt in such a high altitude of 6,654m and some preliminary skill concerning climbing instruments such as ice axe and crampons.the trial winds in the original Everest expedition route from Jiri. We cross high ridges and enthralling deep gorges in Everest region the native soil of legendary climbers ‘Sherpas’ before entering to the isolated wilderness of Hinku Valley. Annually 700 foreigners make an attempt to climb Mera peak which demands preliminary mountaineering experience and a special permit from Nepal Mountaineering Association. J.O.M Roberts, Sir Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Norgay where the first masters who got victory over Mera peak in 20 May 1953.
Before we start our climb to Mera peak we organize a basic climbing course instructed by professional sherpa climbers such that all of our climbers have basic climbing knowledge so they get confidence to get triumph over the summit. In the weather condition is good we can climb the peak and descend back in the same day. From the pinnacle of Mera peak we can view the outstanding view of Everest, Lhotse, Makalu, Kanchanjunga and Cho Oyu. Mera peak climbing is a complete tented camping trek where our kitchen staffs will serve you with fresh, hygienic and delicious food.
Fact File
Elevation: 6,654m/21,825 ft.
Region: Everest/ Khumbu Himal
The Route: KTM- Lukla- Mera Peak Base Camp
Best Season: Sept-Nov. & April to june.
Duration: 17 Days
Trek type: Camping+Teahouse
Max Altitude: 6654 m.
Mode of Travel: Flight
Grade: Adventure Climbing
Day to Day Itinerary
Day 01:Arrival in Kathmandu Airport and transferred to your hotel.
Day 02: Kathmandu valley sightseeing & trip preparation After breakfast,you may wish to join our city tour of Kathmandu, which covers the highlights of the valley: Kathmandu Durbar Square, the Monkey Temple, Pashupatinath and Boudha. In the evening you will have a formal introduction to your trek/climb leader and make a final check of your final climbing equipment. Overnight at Hotel.
Day 03:Fly to Lukla (2,800m) 35 minutes flight this morning you'll be transferred to the domestic airport to fly to Lukla. It is a 35-minute scenic flight to Lukla airport (2800m/9184ft), where you will have time to stroll around while the camp is being set up. After camp setup you can keep your things at the camp and have lunch, and the remaining time you can explore the local area and observe the traditional Sherpa lifestyle. Overnight at tented camp.
Day 04:Trek to Chutanga (3,430m) 3-4 hrs walks Our first trekking day is an easy walk that leads eastwards. This path is less frequented than the other main trails from Lukla, and takes us through a number of hamlets and woodlands until we reach a thick forest of silver fir, birch, pine and rhododendron on the hillside below Nau Lekh, also known as Kalo Himal Ridge. On this portion we follow our guide closely as there are many paths leading away from the main trail. There are many small streams with numerous places for a campsite. This whole area is referred to as Chutanga, which means summer pasture. Our first campsite in the wilderness is pitched on the meadow with time for a short walk around and overnight at tented camp.
Day 05: Trek to Chhatre danda (4,000m) 5-6 hrs From Chutanga, we begin with a steep climb to cross the Kalo Himal Ridge in the Nau Lekh range which separates the Khumbu from the Hinku Valley. The uphill climb from our camp brings us to a cairned notch in the ridge with a collection of Buddhist prayer flags at 4450m. This small pass is called the Zatrwa Og, and from here the path traverses a boulder slope, rounds a corner and climbs once again to the Zatrwa-La at 4600m. In bad weather it can be difficult to find the path so care should be taken. In fine weather, the view across the Dudh Kosi towards Karyolung and the Lumding Himal and the scenery across the rolling foothills of the Hinku Valley are very impressive. From here, a descent of less than an hour will bring us to a large boulder at Tuli Kharka, which will be our campsite for the night.
Day 06: Trek to Mausum Kharka (3,430m) 3-4 hrs walks From our Tuli Kharka camp, we have a short trek on a downhill slope with a superb view of Peak 43 and Kusum Kanguru before coming to a fine vantage point of the Hinku valley, with a grand view of the South Face of Mera Peak. Entering the forest once again, the trail drops steeply into the Hinku valley. A pleasant walk leads through a forest full of tall Himalayan pine and rhododendron. We make our camp on the clearing known as Mousum Kharka by the Hinku Drangka River and overnight at the tented camp.
Day 07:Trek to Thagnag (4,360m) 5-6 hrs walks From Mousum Kharka, our route follows the west bank of the Hinku Drangka northwards, eventually leaving the forest. The valley opens up and widens, and we come to a pasture and small kharkas (a barn and shelter), which is where shepherds graze their goats, sheep and yaks. We cross a small bridge to reach Gondishung (4350m), a summer settlement of Tagnag with its huts and stone-walled enclosures. Gondishung itself has a fascinating 200-year-old gompa (monastery) beneath a great rock overhang. It is a small gompa, with a Buddha and several Bodhisattvas, prayer flags and a number of crude mani walls. The trek continues for another hour, passing beyond Lungsamba as the valley narrows between the flanks of Kusum Kangguru (6369m) to the west and the truncated far western peak of Mera (6255m). We finish our walk here at Tagnag, a settlement made by yak herders. Nowdays there are several tea houses here to cater to the needs of the local staff and porters who accompany expeditions to Mera and beyond. We will camp three nights in these beautiful surroundings.
Day 08: Rest day for acclimatization We have a well-earned rest day for acclimatization and local hikes in this wonderful setting surrounded by stunning peaks, especially Peak 43 which rises to 6769m. Just north of the camp there is a huge moraine behind which is dammed a beautiful glacial lake known as the Sabai Tsho, into which plummets the hanging Sabai Glacier. This is well worth exploring, and the time spent will help you to acclimatize.
Day09: Trek to Khare (5,000m) 4-5 hrs walk Today's destination is a short day walk of 4-5 hours but we will take it slowly, acclimatizing and enjoying the surrounding scenery. Our route follows a relatively good trail leading up across the moraine which dams the Charpatti Tal, and then reaching a high point lined with cairns overlooking the glacial lake after more than a half-hour climb. From here the path descends slightly and crosses a sandy bowl to the steep stream that descends from Dig Kharka. We proceed on the right bank for 45 minutes until we reach the large pasture of Dig Kharka, and here we cross the stream with the help of stepping stones towards the walls of an old shelter. We will have a break here, and if it is time we will have lunch. After Dig Kharka we have a steep climb for few minutes, passing a large bivouac stone, and then the path contours around the hillside reaching the stream once again. We re-cross the stream at an obvious spot on large boulders. Following the trail for more than an hour across the boulder strewn hillside, we reach Khare for our overnight.
Day 10: Trek to Mera High Camp (5800m) 5-6 hrs walk As our journey continues, our route advances southward, climbing the moraine and following the crest to the foot of the black, steep screen slope. The path zigzags its way up to the top, from where we look across a boulder strewn bowl to the lower tongue of Mera Glacier. Our hard walk has brought us here in less than two hours. The route now crosses the bowl and then climbs to the right of the tongue to a large rock platform beside the glacier after another careful one-hour walk. From here we must use crampons for 15 minutes to climb the 30-35 degree ice to reach the plateau leading to Mera La. The trail, which is well marked (unless there has been recent snowfall) weaves its way around and between the crevasses toward Mera-La, and from here it takes another hour to reach the pass. From Mera-La, we continue our journey for another 3 hours to our overnight High Camp beneath Mera Peak. The first hour's climb offers a grand view of the northern peaks of Makalu, then Everest, with a cloud plume peeking over the massive black wall of Nuptse. Later, as we come closer to our High Camp, Cho Oyu can be seen. From High Camp, if weather permits, we will have a panorama of Kanchenjunga far to the east. We set our camp at High Camp.
Day 11:Climb of Mera (6,476m) and descend to Khare (5,025m) After an early morning breakfast we start our big day for the summit to Mera. From the High Camp the summit bid will be made early in the morning (anywhere from 2am to 5am), and take around 4 to 6 hours to make the summit. While the distance doesn't look far, we can assure you it will be hard work, and all the preparations and a positive, tempered attitude will pay off here. It is usually necessary to rope up for much of the summit approach due to crevasse hazards along the route. The route can vary depending on the conditions of the season but usually skirts around a major shoulder in front of us to the back side of the mountain and then traverses in a fairly straightforward approach to the summit knob. As it starts to get light, we enjoy incredible views across to Baruntse (7129m), Chamlang (7319m) and Nau Lekh (6360m) with Makalu (8481m) looming behind. Further to our left is Everest, peaking over several unnamed peaks of the Hinku. To the south we can see for miles down to the valley. We aim to make the summit early/mid-morning and then return to Khare. The exact schedule will depend on many factors, including the weather, condition of the route and condition of the members. Our contingency of equipment and experienced staff and a time buffer, gives us a fair amount of flexibility to achieve success for all who have worked hard and consistently from the beginning of the expedition. The day will be long, and this is where all the training beforehand, the trek approach, and the right attitude will combine to give you stamina and confidence to be part of a sound team, with optimum chances for the summit.
Day 12: A spare Summit attempt day We keep an extra day as a spare day, set aside in case we have to postpone the attempt on the peak because of bad weather or because some of the group have not yet acclimatized well enough to make the ascent. If everything has gone smoothly and you have succeeded in climbing the summit on the first day, you can use this day for another Ice climbing day or spend one more night in the village on the way back to Lukla.
Day 13: Return back to Gothey(3600m) After our successful expedition to Mera peak, we descend through the Hinku valley to Gothey, all the way enjoying the panoramic views of the Himalayan valley and majestic mountains. We reach Gothey for overnight and a relaxing evening with the local wines or whatever you want at the camp. .
Day 14: Trek to Tuli Kharka ( 4250m) After breakfast we climb up through the lush forest on the west side of the Hinku Valley to Tuli Kharka below the Zatwra La, where we are camping overnight.
Day 15: Trek back to Lukla via crossing Zatrwa la (4,600m) After breakfast we start our last day's trek. First we climb a few hundred meters to the top of Zatrwa La, and this will be our last climb of the trip. After the crossing we descend to Lukla village, where we conclude the trekking part, On your last evening in the mountains, you can enjoy having a final meal with your crew. Overnight at a teahouse.
Day 16: Fly to Kathmandu After an early morning flight to Kathmandu our guide will transfer you to your hotel. You will have time to relax after your long journey or do some last minute shopping.
Day 17: Transfer for your final departure.
Note: Above Itinerary can be customized as per client’s interest and time frame







